My Visit to Hancock: “It’s Giving Finland”—The most Finnish town in the U.S. stirs nostalgia for a Finland-born expat
Written By:
Finlandia Foundation
By Saara Vihavainen
There I was, standing in the back-left corner of a beautiful heritage hall located in a small Upper Peninsula city. Its barrel-vaulted ceiling had caught my eye. The white, coffered panels, featuring a floral motif, added to the elegance of the moment, making it feel a bit magical.
My gaze then shifted to the people. As everyone was finding their seats and the projector was being set up, I couldn’t help but think how special it was: more than fifty people, of varying backgrounds, had gathered at the Finnish American Heritage Center (FAHC) in Hancock, Michigan. They had come together to create music and celebrate Finnish culture.
I was already feeling the love in the atmosphere when a very specific song was requested as the opener for the evening.
Led by the Finnish International Choir, the hall filled with Jukka Kuoppamäki’s lyrics in comforting unison: “Kotimaa kun taakse jäi, Mietin hiljaa mielessäin…” (“As the homeland was left behind, I thought quietly in my mind…”) I immediately felt goosebumps climb up my spine and spread along my arms. I was very far from Finland, but that evening Finland came to Hancock.
This past summer, I traveled about 1,435 miles (≈2309 km) from West Texas to Hancock, which is roughly twice the length of Finland, for a glimpse of Finnish-America at its finest. And let’s just say, I was ready to swing into full Finnish momentum the moment I arrived!
As for first impressions, I was head over my villasukat (woolen socks) when I found out that Hancock is a fairly walkable town. From my host’s place, I could walk to the downtown shops and back in about 20 minutes. Call me a Finn, but that’s pure luxury.
Another thing that cradled my Finnish soul was the dual flags hung along the Quincy Street lamp posts; that is, the U.S. flag paired with the iconic Siniristilippu (“Blue Cross Flag”) of Finland. To top it off, some of the street signs were bilingual, written in both English and Finnish. Can you believe that?!
Without hesitation, I sent pictures of these gems to my friends in Finland. There is nothing quite like expatriate excitement when your motherland’s language and culture is highlighted in an unexpected way. Think: gasping. Big smiles. Good-natured pointing. And many exclamation marks in texts!!!
Initially, I thought visiting the most Finnish town — that’s you Hancock! — in the U.S. would momentarily transport me back to Finland due to the lush, green nature and proximity of a big body of water.
That wasn’t all that happened though. I left with a much more surprising realization, one I wasn’t able to predict.
But before I get to the grand reveal, I have to share the five most Finn-tastical sights and experiences the town can offer:
- Hopping on the jumbo-sized red potkukelkka (kick sled) by the FAHC. The spot exudes Nordic energy, making it one of the best photo-ops in town. Inevitably, nearly every Finn will flash back to that childhood dilemma: Potkukelkalla vai pulkalla kouluun? (Kick sled or regular sled to school?) Honestly, I was more of a pulkka fan as a kid, but the kick sled holds a special nostalgic place in my heart.
- Picking up goodies from North Wind Books. Oh, how I could spend hours wandering around this bookstore…and that I did! Although, this is no regular bookstore. It’s more of a Finn haven, easily recognized by the Marimekko-inspired blue flowers on the facade.
It is a place where homesickness to Finland magically dissipates and you feel comforted by Finnish literature, Moomin and Marimekko merch, clothing featuring Sisu, the ever-iconic Fazer Blue chocolate, Juhla Mokka’s red packaging, and even something as simple as reusable dishcloths with beautiful prints. It’s true; I couldn’t leave the store without one.
North Wind Books is a must-visit spot and clearly a favorite among Finns. By the time I arrived, almost all the chocolaty goodies were gone! - Throwing löyly (steam)at Takka Saunas. The space offers both electric and wood-burning saunas, a cold plunge tub, and Finnish bucket showers, all set against the gorgeous view of the Portage Lake Lift Bridge. I’m not usually one for cold plunges, but “when in Hancock,” I calmly submerged myself neck deep. Adrenaline activated!
As I threw lemon-eucalyptus scented water onto the sauna stove and waited for the aroma to spread, the löyly led me to a moment of reflection and gratitude. Sauna has always been a safe space, bringing calm, relaxation, and a release from daily stresses. There are many ways to enjoy sauna (some very fancy), but my favorite memory is from childhood: our regular weekday home sauna with my mother.
No matter what challenges awaited the next day, sauna gave us a chance to reset our bodies and minds. Sometimes we had deep discussions on those benches, and sometimes we kept it silent. I’ll cherish these memories forever, even more so now that she is no longer here to make new ones with me, and I’m grateful to Takka Saunas for a space that let them resurface. - Ordering lettu (thin, crêpe-like pancake) at the Suomi Restaurant. Just over the Portage Lake Lift Bridge, you’ll find the Suomi Restaurant on Houghton’s side of town — a spot that earned its place on my Hancock highlights thanks to a very special Finnish menu item.
My travel buddies and I were seated in a cozy corner where the walls were adorned with Finland-related posters, featuring topics like sauna, avanto (cold plunge), and Finnish nature. Once I spotted lettu on the menu, it was settled: lettu for breakfast! And indeed, lettus galore with each nearly as large as the plate it came on.
With every bite, I was reminiscing of those summer cottage days in Finland when my grandparents prepared lettu with berry jam and whipped cream. While nothing tastes quite as good as a fond memory, the lettu at Suomi Restaurant satisfied the craving (Gen Z translation: it hit the spot) and reminded me of how sometimes the simplest things can make you ridiculously happy. - Touring the Historical Archive at the FAHC. With an appointment with the archivist, you may peek into the room which houses countless stories of those who have come before us. It’s humbling to be surrounded by years of Finnish-American history. I need you to pause for a moment because THIS is essentially where our bicultural legacy began as Finns in the U.S.
I am still in awe of the documents and artifacts, and I have immense respect for those working to digitize and preserve them. After all, we hope future generations will remember their roots, learn from those who came before, and continue keeping Finnish curiosity alive. The archive plays a significant role in this. Seriously, our history is a treasure trove, and it’s too fascinating to let fade away.
As you have probably gathered by now, Hancock is “giving Finland” and has much potential to launch a person into Finnish nostalgia. Love it! But there was one surprising insight I didn’t see coming. I know I’ve kept you in suspense, so here it is:
On aito rikkaus olla amerikansuomalainen. (It is a true richness to be Finnish-American.)
I’ve lived in the U.S. for over a decade, and sometimes I worry about my Finnish self slipping away — the identity forged by a childhood in Finland. But the truth? We’re always evolving. Blending your American and Finnish selves isn’t a loss; it’s a gift. Rather than devaluing your Finnishness, it adds a beautiful layer to it, giving you new ways to appreciate, preserve, and celebrate your culture.
Hancock proved that a Finnish-American can hardcore “fan-girl” a kick sled or squeal with joy when they see a random Finnish flag in a U.S. town. A Finn might appreciate these seemingly little things, but for those of us navigating two cultural identities, they spark a different kind of thrill — one that leads to an irresistible urge to share our language, heritage, and all things Finnish. And that fire doesn’t fizzle out as we go about our days; it fuels the desire to keep our Finnishness alive amidst our “American” lives.
To Hancock, I say: you were a vibe. More importantly, kiitos (thank you) for helping me accept the new Finnish-American version of myself that has been in the making for the past 10 years.
And to my fellow Finnish-Americans, remember that we represent Finland here in the U.S. every day. We hold the key to inspiring Finn-terested individuals and fostering cross-cultural connections in our own communities. Truly, what an honor it is to share our rich culture and unique language wherever we go. Sisulla eteenpäin!
Written by Saara Vihavainen